Pro Makeup Secrets from a NYC Set: 3 Tips & Tricks for Everyday

Caption: Zuzanna Bijoch in the Devi Kroell Spring/Summer 2013 campaign

Ever wondered what it’s like to be on-set as a makeup artist? It’s fun, exciting, hard work, and you may be faced with big waiting periods between takes while the photographer does his work during looks, but you’ve always got to be on your toes ready with the baby oil (to shine the legs) or the right brush or lip-liner to get right in there to fix something in a millisecond.

Being a professional makeup artist is terrifically artistic but it’s also about knowing how to take the right direction from the team and theme you’re working with (the stylist, the photographer, the inspiration) And it’s not just about  picking the correct eyeliner and mixing the right shade of lipstick. You’ve got to chip in sometimes and help when there’s a fire to be put out (trust me it happens on any set - sets are chaotic and full of running staff and moving parts and people, and Balenciaga halter’s and Gucci heels - diamond teardrop earrings and Prada gloves flying everywhere;-)!)

But it’s also about following your instinct. When I have my model in my chair and my tools and makeup laid out, I focus. I concentrate on what will reflect the clothes and fashion theme the best, and hone in on what’s been discussed with the creative team, and then the world and set melt away and I paint and smudge and work away. Of course, input comes in here and there, but in the end I trust myself let the art flow. Sometimes it’s messy, sometimes it’s about struggling to get it perfect, but in the end, it’s the process that makes the whole thing worth it. My motto? En Art n’est pas d’erreur.

Zuzanna Bijoch and I, mugging for our iPhones post-shoot

Pro makeup tricks/tips from the set:

I recently had the pleasure of working with model Zuzanna Bijoch, who has the most beautiful round eyes and lush lips for the Devi Kroell Spring/Summer 2013 campaign and it was great gabbing with her and working on her fairytale like face.

1- The makeup was kept natural and beautiful to showcase the accessories, with a browner smokey eye (hot for spring) and a nice matte nude lip, also trending this season. Matte lips are hard to pull off in a nude color so I recommend you exfoliate your lips with a hot wet washcloth by rubbing gently to get the dry skin off. You can alternate with the wash cloth by applying my favorite lip treatment by Qtica (Intense Lip Repair Balm $12) to help moisturize the lips and soften the dry skin for easier exfoliation. This balm is always in my kit to act as a hydrating base for lipstick. It's the absolute best. It's also a great gift for both men and women.

Zuzanna getting a Facial Treatment Paper mask to soothe her skin after a long day of shooting.

2- Another pro tip is to use disposable paper face masks to soothe stressed skin post lots of makeup or a long day. This is an Asian skin secret and SK-II makes the best ones ($90-125), in my opinion as they are treatment oriented. They are great for stressed out skin, and when I feel a model’s skin has been taxed during a long shoot, I will pull out a mask from my kit and apply it to quickly moisturize and rejuvenate her skin (usually for 15-20 minutes is the average time you leave them on). I recommend doing paper face masks once a week to maintain a great complexion. One of my budget faves are the Masque*ology Facial Masks - the Pore Minimizing ones with Mushroom Extract, only $24 for 3 at Sephora.

3- And lastly, always carry straws (I like the neon colored ones from Target, which I also buy for my daughter  :-)- the models and actors get a kick out of the colors), so that while your subjects are drinking their Perrier or having their lunch, they don’t ruin the lip color you so painstakingly applied. Same for you if you don’t want to ruin that perfect red lip on your night out! Haha!

For the nude lips I did on Zuzanna try CoverGirl's LipPerfection Lip Color in Kiss 275 ($7) YSL's Rouge Pur Couture Pure Color Lipstick in 24 Blond Ingenu ($24) 

 

-- N.C.