Pro Makeup Secrets from a NYC Set: 3 Tips & Tricks for Everyday

Caption: Zuzanna Bijoch in the Devi Kroell Spring/Summer 2013 campaign

Ever wondered what it’s like to be on-set as a makeup artist? It’s fun, exciting, hard work, and you may be faced with big waiting periods between takes while the photographer does his work during looks, but you’ve always got to be on your toes ready with the baby oil (to shine the legs) or the right brush or lip-liner to get right in there to fix something in a millisecond.

Being a professional makeup artist is terrifically artistic but it’s also about knowing how to take the right direction from the team and theme you’re working with (the stylist, the photographer, the inspiration) And it’s not just about  picking the correct eyeliner and mixing the right shade of lipstick. You’ve got to chip in sometimes and help when there’s a fire to be put out (trust me it happens on any set - sets are chaotic and full of running staff and moving parts and people, and Balenciaga halter’s and Gucci heels - diamond teardrop earrings and Prada gloves flying everywhere;-)!)

But it’s also about following your instinct. When I have my model in my chair and my tools and makeup laid out, I focus. I concentrate on what will reflect the clothes and fashion theme the best, and hone in on what’s been discussed with the creative team, and then the world and set melt away and I paint and smudge and work away. Of course, input comes in here and there, but in the end I trust myself let the art flow. Sometimes it’s messy, sometimes it’s about struggling to get it perfect, but in the end, it’s the process that makes the whole thing worth it. My motto? En Art n’est pas d’erreur.

Zuzanna Bijoch and I, mugging for our iPhones post-shoot

Pro makeup tricks/tips from the set:

I recently had the pleasure of working with model Zuzanna Bijoch, who has the most beautiful round eyes and lush lips for the Devi Kroell Spring/Summer 2013 campaign and it was great gabbing with her and working on her fairytale like face.

1- The makeup was kept natural and beautiful to showcase the accessories, with a browner smokey eye (hot for spring) and a nice matte nude lip, also trending this season. Matte lips are hard to pull off in a nude color so I recommend you exfoliate your lips with a hot wet washcloth by rubbing gently to get the dry skin off. You can alternate with the wash cloth by applying my favorite lip treatment by Qtica (Intense Lip Repair Balm $12) to help moisturize the lips and soften the dry skin for easier exfoliation. This balm is always in my kit to act as a hydrating base for lipstick. It's the absolute best. It's also a great gift for both men and women.

Zuzanna getting a Facial Treatment Paper mask to soothe her skin after a long day of shooting.

2- Another pro tip is to use disposable paper face masks to soothe stressed skin post lots of makeup or a long day. This is an Asian skin secret and SK-II makes the best ones ($90-125), in my opinion as they are treatment oriented. They are great for stressed out skin, and when I feel a model’s skin has been taxed during a long shoot, I will pull out a mask from my kit and apply it to quickly moisturize and rejuvenate her skin (usually for 15-20 minutes is the average time you leave them on). I recommend doing paper face masks once a week to maintain a great complexion. One of my budget faves are the Masque*ology Facial Masks - the Pore Minimizing ones with Mushroom Extract, only $24 for 3 at Sephora.

3- And lastly, always carry straws (I like the neon colored ones from Target, which I also buy for my daughter  :-)- the models and actors get a kick out of the colors), so that while your subjects are drinking their Perrier or having their lunch, they don’t ruin the lip color you so painstakingly applied. Same for you if you don’t want to ruin that perfect red lip on your night out! Haha!

For the nude lips I did on Zuzanna try CoverGirl's LipPerfection Lip Color in Kiss 275 ($7) YSL's Rouge Pur Couture Pure Color Lipstick in 24 Blond Ingenu ($24) 

 

-- N.C.

A Pick-Me-Up Shoot

In early December, I got rejected three times. I won’t go into detail on the whys or hows but I got three Nos. It was just one of those weeks where a couple of doors came flying in my face. Not all the way per se but enough so that by the third time it stung. Sulking in self-pity with a rambunctious toddler is a bad idea so I dug deep to find a portrait of a positive self. Christmas was coming and I had no holiday cards, décor, or presents. It was the perfect time for a spur-of-the-moment photo shoot -- a little healing for me and a quick remedy for the lack of prep.

I quickly dolled myself up with make-up and gave my hair a bit of extra love. I grabbed a simple turquoise top and pulled on some seventies-inspired leggings that were black with serious sheen. A’s hair was cleaned up into a high ponytail. Her outfit: a sweater with a big red bow on the chest by the Japanese designer Undercover with striped tights and a mini. We were camera-ready.

Most of the time I feel like A’s eyes are on me all day to do something entertaining for her. Doing a photo shoot at home can be loads of fun and it takes the focus off of you for those 15-30 minutes as the camera takes charge. You can both act silly -- play and pose together on equal footing. All it takes is a self-timer button.

The trick is to take enough pictures. Take at least 25 or 30, or more if you can. If your camera has a Continuous-or Burst-shoot mode, where the camera will take several photos one after another in one click, that works with the self-timer mode, use it. Make sure you wear something nice and make yourself up for the shoot. If you fully took advantage of being creative and enjoyed yourself you’ll be pleasantly surprised at how joyful you look (and of course your kid too).

It’s good to be in the moment and celebrate, if even for a few minutes, the art of just breaking into a grin.



Perfect Pose 1-2-3:

1) Look straight into the camera, like you would with someone you were having a great conversation with. The more relaxed and natural you are the more the lens will pick up on that.

2) Dress simply in form-fitting clothes (as the camera does tend to add 10 pounds) and stay away from busy backgrounds.

3) Make sure your make-up is fresh but keep it clean and streamlined: no intense colors, e.g., use a colored lip gloss not a raging red lipstick because digital cameras often misrepresent colors.

Bonus: Take a look here at how the pros do it.


 

-N.C.

Disclaimer: Nuy Cho has no affiliation to any of the beauty companies mentioned on www.nuybeauty.com.